Friday morning we had a slow start to the trip. After breakfast and showers, we got the car packed. We seem to be getting better because we have more room every time we pack for these camping trips. After stopping at the Business School and then BP to get fuel (lucky it was open because most shops are closed on Good Friday by law!), we hit road at about noon. The first bit seemed to fly be as usual until we got to Milton and the turnoff to Queenstown. There’s something about the next section from Milton to Alexandra that seems to take forever. This is the main and shortest route to Queenstown, but it is a somewhat narrow and winding road. Many places you have to slow to under 50 or 60 and there is at least one one-lane bridge. Then Alexandra to Cromwell and through the Kawarau Gorge to the AJ Hackett bungy, where we stopped for a potty break. Unfortunately, they must have been on a break since no one was jumping.
Our plan was to go to Skippers for the night so we figured the route through Arrowtown would be the shortest. Once in Arrowtown, we drove around in circles a few times because, even with several maps plus the GPS, we couldn’t figure out the correct road to take. Finally, we got it sorted and then proceeded to hit road construction. In fact, the road we wanted to take was closed so we detoured around for a few kilometers and got back to the start of Skippers road. It was pretty nice on the sealed road up to the Coronet Peak Ski Area, but then it got a bit hairy. As we dropped in to the canyon, it was very narrow with no turnouts. Fa was not happy so after having to back up to get around some on-coming cars, we found the first spot where I could turn around (7 point turn!) and got out of there. I’ll try some other time without the family.
We dropped down through Arthur’s Point and into Queenstown. It was quite a madhouse as usual, with people wandering about everywhere. We slipped through and onto to the road to Glenorchy.
At 12 Mile
Delta, we pulled off into the DOC campground and found a nice spot tucked under some willows. We set up camp (door facing wrong way) and had a nice dinner of hot dogs before a little bit of rain came. We stayed dry (seams sealed this time) and waited out the rain, which was over in a few minutes. We’re deep into fall now so it was dark by 7:00 – we headed to bed.



Next morning we got up and had breakfast and walked the beach. We met the ranger who asked us for our camp fee, but we had no change. 
She said no worries, get it tomorrow, but I headed for town to get some cash. I got into Queenstown quickly to find the ATM, get some diesel, and out. I saw the Highlanders practicing on the waterfront for their game that evening as I left town. On the way back I veered off up the hill to Lakes Kirkpatrick and Moke to do some fishing. At Kirkpatrick I saw some nice browns cruising around, but I couldn’t get them interested in anything I had. 
The book I have says that Kirkpatrick trout are frustrating, and I truly believe it. Seeing trout as long as your arm ignoring your flies can drive you crazy. The book says that it builds character! I must have lots of character now. I continued on to Moke Lake, where I didn’t see a thing except a steady stream of SUVs, mountain bikes, and even ultra-marathoners. After a couple of hours, I headed back, stopping again at Kirkpatrick to torment myself.

Back at the camp Fa and the kids were resting and playing. By the middle of the day it was quite warm and sunny so the kids put on swimsuits and walked into the water. Ginny the fish braved it and swam for awhile, but Hank just waded around a bit. Then they both got cold and came out. We lounged around for the rest of the day before having smoked mussels and oysters for dinner. Again, an early night sent us to bed.

Easter Sunday we awoke to find eggs around the campsite so Ginny and Hank collected them before breakfast. We finished and packed up to head to Glenorchy. It was a fantastic day in New Zealand – clear and warm. We could see forever up into the Southern Alps. We passed through Glenorchy and on to the Lake Sylvan DOC campground. Unfortunately, the camp was not at the lake but 40 minutes away by foot, so we decided not to stay there. However, the camp was on the Routeburn River, which had an interesting suspension bridge across it, much like the bridge in Shrek. We walked back and forth across it a few times and left.

20 km down the road we came to Kinloch where there is a lodge (motel, really) and a DOC campground. We found an amazing spot at the end of the road, surrounded on three sides by water, looking up the valley and down the lake. Just as we pulled up I spotted a couple of 24″ trout in the little stream entering the lake, so I new this had to be the place. We set up the tent in the loose gravel, using the car to stabilize it. Then we all changed and headed for the water, me with my fishing gear and the kids with
their swim gear. I didn’t see any more fish but wandered upstream for an hour while Hank and Ginny swam in the lake. Eventually we made our way back to the camp and relaxed the afternoon away, reading, fishing, exploring, etc. I didn’t have any luck but Hank caught some minnows with a bucket and his hands.
After a dinner of reheated 4-cheese pasta, everyone went to bed while I got out my fishing gear again. As it got dark, many fish entered the stream in front of the camp. I could see rises all over the place, but couldn’t figure out what they were hitting. I finally tied on a large woolly bugger and had a couple of strikes, but didn’t hook them. Oh well. Eventually it got completely dark and even though I could still see and hear fish rising in the starlight, I gave up when I lost my fly on a backcast. I looked at the stars for a while and came to bed.
There had to be a downside to that perfect place and we discovered it that night. All night long what we thought were cows were mooing in the distance. They were occasionally interrupted by ducks quacking and sometimes by a bird calling right outside our tent. I think it was some kind of plover since it sounded much like a killdeer. It felt like we were sleeping in a barn.
Eventually, the night was over and we got some sleep. Once we got up I talked to the DOC fee collector and he said the mooing was from deer, or rather stags that jumped the fence and went bush. He said they are in rut right now so that’s why they were so noisy at night. We decided that after such a horrible night we were done camping and would head home a day early. We had a nice breakfast at the lodge and then packed up the camp. Amazingly, I found the fly I lost the night before just sitting on the ground. That never happens.
Leaving Kinloch, Fa drove for the first time in New Zealand. She made it about 20 kms to Glenorchy, good as gold. On the way back to Queenstown we ran into a bicycle race, which delayed us probably 30 – 45 minutes. Eventually we leapfrogged the several groups of cyclists and got through Queenstown. We stopped at the bungy again and this time watched a few jumps. We saw a double jump and several water touches. It looks like so much fun we’ll have to do it before we leave New Zealand. This time on the way back we took the long route over to Ranfurly and Palmerston. At 20 extra kms it didn’t seem as bad as the normal route – less traffic, wider road, and less turns. We got back to Dunedin at 5:30 and got Flying Squid takeaway.
Home and unpacking, relaxing, movies, etc. Today clothes washing, cleaning, recovering.
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